Skew chisel

 

This is the tool that usually few of us know how to use.  Phil Carlton has done two lectures for us.  This article is done based on his lectures.  You should be very careful with the tool, since it can get away from you very quickly and will do a real number on your wood.  Practice the usual safety procedures and practice all cuts on scrap first.  Most direction are given for a right handed person.

 

There are three type of skew chisel.  They are:

 

 

The skew angle is pretty much the same, 70 degrees from point-to-point. There are two points, the long point and the short point (see drawing).  Each chisel has a sweet spot where it cuts the best.  This is usually about 3/16 of an inch up from the short point. 

 

 

 

 

 

You should round the corners of the short point edge.  This will allow you to roll the tool and not catch on the tool rest.  The long point edge corners should be softened somewhat, but do not need to be rounded.  It is easier to rest the tool when you are making a 90 degree angle.

 

Sharpen the tool, maintaining the factory bevel.  Once the tool is sharp, it will need to be honed on a stone, either diamond or what ever one you prefer.  The skew chisel needs to be really sharp to work well and that sharpness needs to be maintained.  Be prepared to sharpen often.

 

Practice on soft wood to get the technique down.

 

Unlike other tools, the skew needs to approach the wood fairly high.  You will need to set your tool rest fairly high, in the upper quadrant of the piece, above the center. 

 

It is easier to use the long point down rather than up.  This allows you to see the work as it progresses.  If you have the long point up, the point will be in your way. (This position applies to making “V” cuts. When applied to planing cuts, the short point is usually down)

 

One of the most basic cuts is the planning cut.  This will make the wood extremely smooth, so much so you can get rid of the sanding stage.  It is mostly done on wood that is level, but, with practice, you can do it on curved wood.

 

Planner cut – see diagram.  Tool at 45 degrees of the work if you cut with the short point down.  If you prefer to cut with the long point down, the tool angle is about 5 degrees. In these positions the cutting edge is about 65 degrees to the axis of the work piece.  Tool on the rest. Bevel on the wood.  Very slowly rotate the tool down until dust appears.  Then, once you establish the proper angle, move too along the work.  You may have to make several passes if the piece is not level.

 

 

 

V cut – Long point down, approach the piece, bring handle up and arc in (this is not a pushing action).   Let the tool do the work and don’t force it.  The cut will stall when it is as deep as it can go.  To expand the cut, go on either shoulder and just trim out more.

 

Rolling cut – Make a vee cut and roll the tool in the direction of the bead. Then trim the corners off

 

Parting cut – You make a deep vee cut where you want the part off to be.  A parting tool leaves a rough surface, where the skew actually cuts the wood out.  You will have to make the cut so as to leave room for the tool.

 

Cove cut – This cut is best accomplished with the curved skew.  A straight across skew can be used if the cove has a long radius.  It is just a matter of cutting down with the short point to the middle of the cove, and then cutting down with the short point, in the same manner, on the other side of the cove.

 

Pommel cut – This cut begins with a “V” cut and proceeds to widen on one side only (generally the right side).  The left side of the “V” cut generally remains straight in.  Continue cutting in this manner until you get to the desired depth.  It is generally more desirable to round off the shoulder.  Use the rolling cut to accomplish this.

 

Peeling cut - Rest the bevel on the top of the piece, edge parallel to the work.  Then bring the handle up.  Use only about ½ to Ύ of the cutting edge and always start at the edge of the work.  You will cut in very fast, so practice carefully.

 

 

Roughing cut - Roughing out can also be done with a skew.  It works much faster than the gouge, but takes a bit more practice.  This is actually a planing cut used to take off the high points.  This is a more advanced cut because most of the time you are cutting air, until you approach round.